Sea Horse


Sea Horse Sale

Hippocampus polytaenia
Hippocampus rhynchomacer
Hippocampus taeniops
Hippocampus taeniopterus
Hippocampus tristis Spotted Seahorse
Hippocampus zebra Zebra Seahorse
Hippocampus zosterae
Hippocampus regulus
Hippocampus rosamondae
Hippocampus abdominalis
Hippocampus agnesae
Hippocampus bleekeri
Hippocampus graciliformis Big Belly Seahorse
Hippocampus algiricus
Hippocampus kaupii
Hippocampus histrix
Hippocampus hystrix Thorny Seahorse
Hippocampus ingens
Hippocampus ecuadorensis
Hippocampus gracilis
Hippocampus punctulatus West African Seahorse
Hippocampus angustus
Hippocampus erinaceus Narrow Bellied Seahorse
Hippocampus barbouri
Hippocampus aimei
Hippocampus arnei Barbour's Seahorse
Hippocampus bargibanti Pygmy Seahorse
Hippocampus borbonensis RĂ©union Seahorse
Hippocampus breviceps
Hippocampus tuberculatus Short Headed Seahorse
Hippocampus camelopardalis
Hippocampus subcoronatus Giraffe Seahorse
Hippocampus capensis Knysna seahorse
Hippocampus comes Tiger Tail Seahorse
Hippocampus coronatus Crowned Seahorse
Hippocampus erectus
Hippocampus brunneus
Hippocampus fascicularis
Hippocampus hudsonius
Hippocampus kincaidi
Hippocampus laevicaudatus
Hippocampus marginalis
Hippocampus punctulatus
Hippocampus stylifer
Hippocampus tetragonous
Hippocampus villosus
Hippocampus fisheri Fisher's Seahorse
Hippocampus fuscus
Hippocampus brachyrhynchus
Hippocampus natalensis Sea Pony
Hippocampus guttulatus
Hippocampus hippocampus microcoronatus
Hippocampus hippocampus microstephanus
Hippocampus longirostris Long Snouted Seahorse
Hippocampus hippocampus
Hippocampus antiquorum
Hippocampus antiquus
Hippocampus brevirostris
Hippocampus europaeus
Hippocampus heptagonus
Hippocampus pentagonus
Hippocampus vulgaris Short Snouted Seahorse
Hippocampus hildebrandi Giant Seahorse
Hippocampus jayakari Jayakar's Seahorse
Hippocampus kelloggi Great Seahorse
Hippocampus kuda
Hippocampus aterrimus
Hippocampus chinensis
Hippocampus hilonis
Hippocampus horai
Hippocampus kuda multiannularis
Hippocampus melanospilos
Hippocampus moluccensis
Hippocampus novaehebudorum
Hippocampus lichtensteinii Lichtenstein's Seahorse
Hippocampus minotaur Bullneck Seahorse
Hippocampus mohnikei
Hippocampus japonicus
Hippocampus monckei
Hippocampus monickei
Hippocampus monike Japanese Seahorse
Hippocampus reidi
Hippocampus obtusus
Hippocampus poeyi
Hippocampus sindonis Dhiho's Seahorse
Hippocampus spinosissimus
Hippocampus arnei Hedge Hog Seahorse
Hippocampus subelongatus
Hippocampus elongatus West Australian Seahorse
Hippocampus trimaculatus
Hippocampus dahli
Hippocampus kampylotrachelos
Hippocampus manadensis
Hippocampus mannulus
Hippocampus planifrons
Hippocampus takakurae Longnose Seahorse
Hippocampus whitei
Hippocampus novaehollandae
Hippocampus novaehollandiae White's Seahorse

African Cichlids

melanochromis bauratus sale
melanochromis chipokae for sale
pseudotropheus socolofi sale
melanochromis johannii sale

African Cichlids

Red Zebra Pseudotropheus estherae Malawi 5 inches Moderate Mbuna Very common in shops. Strangely, neither red, nor striped
Red Peacock Aulonocara hansbaenschi Malawi 5 inches Minimal Utaka Many variations
Yellow Lab Labidochromis caeruleus Malawi 6 inches Minimal Mbuna
Zebra Obliquidens Astatotilapia (Haplochromis) latifasciata Kioga 4 inches Minimal Utaka Often sold as haplochromis obliquidens from Lake Victoria (but is not)
Msobo Metriaclima Msobo Malawi 6 inches Minimal Mbuna Males are blue, females yellow
Blue Acei Pseudotropheus Acei Malawi 6 inches Minimal Mbuna Swims on the top, even though a mbuna
Christmas Fulu Xystichromis phytophagus Victoria 6 inches Minimal Mbuna Spectacular male mating colors

Blue Cobalt Cichlid (Maylandia callainos)
Dogtooth Cichlid (Cynotilapia afra)
Perlmutt Cichlid (Labidochromis sp. 'perlmutt')
Auratus (Melanochromis auratus)
Chipokee (Melanochromis chipokae)
Johanni (Melanochromis johannii)
Electric Yellow Labido (Labidochromis caeruleus)
Msobo Cichlid (Pseudotropheus sp. "Msobo")
Elongate Mbuna (Pseudotropheus elongatus)
Demason's Cichlid (Pseudotropheus demasoni)
Hornet (Bumblebee) Cichlid (Pseudotropheus crabro)
Freiberg's Mbuna (Labidochromis freibergi)
Fuelleborn's Mbuna (Labeotropheus fuelleborni)
Pearl of Likoma (Melanochromis joanjohnsonae)
King Size Cichlid (Pseudotropheus sp. 'kingsizei')
Saulos's Mbuna (Pseudotropheus saulosi)
Red Zebra Cichlid (Pseudotropheus estherae)
Zebra Red Top (Maylandia emmiltos)
Maingano Cichlid (Melanochromis cyaneorhabdos)
Kennyi (Pseudotropheus lombardoi)
Aurora Cichlid (Pseudotropheus aurora)
Powder Blue Cichlid (Pseudotropheus socolofi)

Rainbowfish

Signifer Rainbowfish Sale
Signifer Rainbowfish For SaleRed Irian Rainbowfish Sale
Red Irian Rainbowfish Sale

Diseases in Tropical Fish

Diseases in Tropical Fish

Following are the categories and symptoms of the most common diseases in tropical fish.

Fungal Diseases

Fungal diseases will usually occur after the fish has already been weakened through stress, parasites or a bacterial disease. In some cases the fish will appear sluggish and in the latter stages develop cysts. Another type of fungal infection will produce white growths that eventually turn into cotton like tuffs on the skin.

Bacterial Diseases

Bacterial diseases often need to be treated with antibiotic medications. Fish infected with bacteria often develop bulging eyes, ulcers and open sores. One bacteria causes a disease called mouth fungus that looks like a fungal infection on the mouth. Other signs of a bacterial infection include a lose of appetite, hollow belly, erratic swimming, and disintegrating fins.

Viral Diseases

Viral diseases are fortunately fairly uncommon in fish. On sign of a viral disease is white swellings on the body of the fish. Viruses cannot be treated with medication because they use the host's body to reproduce and live on. If you suspect your fish has a viral disease, it should be removed and placed in another tank so the other fish will not be infected with the same virus. The best thing you can do is to provide a clean environment and a healthy, nutritious diet. A virus can only be identified by special equipment and it is often difficult to detect.

Parasitic Diseases

One symptom most parasitic diseases have in common is the fish scraping against or rubbing objects. The parasites are eating through the flesh of the fish and if they aren't removed will eat into the organs and kill the fish. Simply pulling the parasites off will often do more damage to the fish. A bath of potassium permanganate or a salt solution is often the best method to remove parasites. In some cases you will be able to see the parasites on the skin of the fish and thus confirm the problem is parasites, or you may notice other signs such as rapid gilling, clamped fins, red skin and weight loss.

Protozoan Diseases

These diseases are caused by the protozoan parasite that infects the intestinal tract. Several diseases will cause a yellow to light brown dust on the body. On commonly known protozoan disease is called ich. Ich is characterized by small white spots all over the body. The fish will breath rapidly and have clamped fins. Other types cause excessive slim on the body, frayed fins, bloated body and a lack of appetite.

Feeding Your Fish

Feeding Your Fish

There are hundreds of food options for your pet fish, and a combination of foods from this selection is necessary to provide your fish with the nutrients they need. All of these foods fall into two broad categorizations of fish food: live and processed, which can be broken down further as described below.

Live Fish Food

Live food consists of plants, animals, and microorganisms that are living in your tank - or at least live when you introduce them to your tank - that your fish can eat. It is important to make sure that the live foods you provide for your fish provide all the nutrients that your fish need to remain healthy and to grow properly, and do not pose a risk to the fish. Live food consists of plants, animals, and microorganisms that are living in your tank - or at least live when you introduce them to your tank - that your fish can eat. It is important to make sure that the live foods you provide for your fish provide all the nutrients that your fish need to remain healthy and to grow properly, and do not pose a risk to the fish. Many live foods, particularly feeder goldfish, are very common vectors for disease.

Many fish will graze a little on live plants and algae growing in your aquarium, but some herbivores will voraciously eat any live plants you put in the tank. Other fish will feed on microorganisms that are free-floating in your aquarium water or growing on the surface of plants and decorations. Still other fish will gladly eat worms, snails, and/or other invertebrates that are introduced to the aquarium. Many pet stores also provide a variety of insects and insect larvae that are of nutritional value to fish.

The most common live foods used in the aquarium hobby are live feeder fish. These fish often do not receive the care they need to remain healthy and are often carrying diseases or parasites that could, in turn, infect any fish that eats them. The best way to spread a disease from one fish to another is for a fish to eat an infected fish! Also, in many areas, the live foods that are available are very limited in variety. A diet of just one food is almost guaranteed to be short on some vital vitamins, minerals, or other nutrients that your fish need.

Processed Fish Food

There are many categories of processed foods, including fresh, frozen, freeze-dried, and canned.

Fresh foods include meats and vegetables with minimal processing. Many fish will go wild for small (relatively) bits of beef, poultry, seafood, or game meats, but you don't want to cook these foods in most cases. A lot of fish will also enjoy bits of fresh vegetable matter, such as raw potato, squash, zucchini, pea, bean, apple (without the peel or seeds), and spinach. Again, as with live foods, you need to make sure that the diet you have selected will meet the nutritional needs of your fish.

Frozen foods are available from most pet stores in a wide variety - from shrimp and squid to spirulina algae and vegetables to processed, vitamin enhanced staple diets to aquarium delicacies like sponges and insect larvae. The selection of frozen foods available can provide a varied and stable diet for most fish, and the processes that the foods go through when freezing greatly reduce the risk of disease transfer when compared to live foods or fresh seafood, wile maintaining a high nutritional value.

Many of the foods available as frozen foods also have a freeze-dried counterpart. These foods have all of the moisture extracted from them during processing so that they have a long shelf life and can be stored easily. Many worms, insect larvae, crustaceans, and meats are available in freeze dried forms. One disadvantage of freeze dried foods is that the freeze-drying process often strips vitamins from the food as well, so freeze dried foods are not likely to make a balanced and complete diet. Remember when feeding freeze-dried foods, that these foods can absorb a lot of water, and will fill up your fish a lot more than you would think when looking in the package. We recommend that you moisten freeze-dried foods before feeding them to your fish to keep your fish from overeating and making themselves sick.

Canned foods are often the best for a fish's staple diet. The foods are engineered to provide a complete and balanced diet for your fish and are available in a variety of forms: floating pellets, sinking pellets, granules, tablets, and flakes.

Flakes are the most common type of processed foods, and are available in a very wide variety. Some flakes are engineered to provide the nutritional requirements of specific varieties or species of fish, and others are designed to counter nutritional imbalances, Flakes are the most common type of processed foods, and are available in a very wide variety. Some flakes are engineered to provide the nutritional requirements of specific varieties or species of fish, and others are designed to counter nutritional imbalances, while still others are balanced to enhance color or growth or to encourage spawning.
Pellets are available in forms that are denser or lighter than water. This allows the fish to feed in a more natural way - if the right pellet is provided. Some fish prefer to feed off the bottom of the tank while others prefer to feed off the surface. Like flakes, pelleted foods are available in many varieties, each with a specific purpose.
Granules are like very small, hard flakes or tiny pellets. Currently only a limited variety of fish food granules are available, usually engineered for the general nutritional needs of small community fish.
Tablets are really just large flat pellets. Most tablets are of a sinking variety, but there are some that are engineered to adhere to the side of the aquarium so that you may observe your fish feeding. Most of the sinking tablets are engineered to provide for the nutritional needs of scavengers and bottom feeders.
Regardless of the type of foods you decide to feed your fish, you should provide them with a variety of foods. Variety in the diet reduces the chance of any nutritional shortcomings of one or more of your selected foods becoming a health or longevity problem for your fish. Providing a variety of foods will also reduce the chances that your fish loose interest in the foods that they are offered and go on a "hunger strike."

Feeding Discus Fish

Even though feeding your discus fish is not difficult, there are some guidelines that need to be followed to ensure that you are not causing problems with your feeding methods.

If you are using pellets, there is one caution. Make sure you soak the pellets in water before introducing them into your tank. If you don't do this, they may swell in the fish's stomach causing bloating.

Frozen brine shrimp are a good source of protein. You can buy packages of brine shrimp and keep them in your freezer. At feeding time, break off a small piece and drop it into your tank.

Discus in the wild eat live food, such as white and black worms. These are also available commercially. And they can be kept in your fridge, but not frozen. Do not buy large quantities of live food. You want it to be fresh when feeding your prized fish.

One other food worth mentioning is beef heart. Some hobbyists make their own fish food by using beef heart in combination with other ingredients. This is an inexpensive alternative for live food with the benefit of providing the necessary protein.

Aquarium Accessories

Aquarium Accessories
Aquarium Filters and Fish Tank Filters

There are three mandatory things that just about ever fish tank needs and these include a filter, a heater and lights. The filter is important because it is the thing that keeps the water in the tank clean and clear. Without a fish tank filter your fish will suffer from disease and even death and the water will turn cloudy and start to smell.

Aquarium Heaters

A heater is necessary because in most cases people put tropical fish in their new aquarium. Tropical fish live in warm water and will not live long in water that has big temperature fluctuations. A heater will keep the water temperature constant which tropical fish like best. Remember to get the right size heater for the size of tank you have. The only exception to the heater rule is a gold fish tank. Gold fish can survive in un-heated water.


Aquarium Lighting & Fish Tank Lights

Lights are important for a couple of reasons. There are fish that need the extra light to help them thrive and survive. This is especially true in salt water tanks that have corals and anemones. Lights also add to the beauty of the tank, bringing out the colors of the fish and other accessories you may have.